At Hortensia, we change a Champagne by the glass on a six month basis.

Every time, we collect samples of candidates from importers. And all the staff members get together and blind-taste them!

It's so much fun! 

But as a matter of fact, it's not democratic! Of course, I hear their opinions because I'm interested in what they think 

to some extent but it doesn't mean that their opinions are fully reflected in the result! Actually, they are not!

(The first sip always tastes best?? Well, would you possibly take such an opinion seriously??)

I chose this champagne, Robert Montcuit this time.

Probably, Pierre Montcuit sounds more familiar if you are a Champagne lover.

Pierre Montcuit is a well known Champagne producer and absolutely more popular here in Japan.

And in US also it is that way if my memory is correct..

But there are no factors where Robert is inferior to Pierre, well, maybe except marketing!

Besides that, this cuvee is called "Extra Brut" which means they add less sugar or dosage.

But the more important fact is that it uses riper and healthier grapes so that it doesn't call for sugar that could not only add sweetness to round out the high acid but also it can mask the negative elements!

It is blanc de blancs, whose style is crisp and fresh with lots of mineral characters.

Great for spring and summer!

Cheers!

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier

Now I feel as if I worked in California, which absolutely makes me reminiscent, though.....

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier

Seemingly, the Syrah boom has been happening in California with some super stars emerging, such as Saxum and/or Booker!

It looks like a recent phenomenon but as a matter of fact, there are some producers who have been crafting great Syrahs since this variety was not so popular or even not well known 30 years ago.

Ojai is absolutely one of those greatest Syrah producers with a long history that the golden state is proud of.

However, the style is quite different from the new comers whose wines tend to be so big and rich that they have more in common with Shiraz from Barossa. (Recent Barossa Shiraz are getting more elegant, though.)

This wine obviously belongs to the old school Syrah, meaning that the wine shows more complex, earthy aromas and flavors that can be described as "UMAMI or the sixth taste with a more restrained structure.

The fact that it uses exclusively grapes from the Melville vineyard in one of the coolest areas helps enhance this complex style.

Besides that, the vintage is 2002, mature enough to show all the beautiful aromas and flavors!

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier 

If you are a savvy wine lover, you already know that Oregon has been producing

Pinot Noir of the world class quality. But for most of the people, particularly here in Japan,

Oregon is still an unknown wine region. And for some people, where is it?

Probably, it's been for the last 10 years that Oregon has gained a recognition as such. 

But, the founder of this winery, David Lett a.k.a "Pinot Papa" believed in its potential as 

a top class wine region for Pinot Noir and settled in Oregon in 1965 to produce top quality Pinot Noir

when little wine was produced in the area. Of course, the locals thought he was crazy.

But, it turned out that he was genius! Only 15 years later, did he achieve the global recognition

by competing with top wines from Burgundy at the Paris competition with Pinot Noir "South Block Reserve" 1975.

It is said that the style of classic Oregon Pinot Noir is supposed to be somewhere between California and Burgundy.

This wine tastes exactly the way it should.

Enjoy this wine with a variety of foods including Pan-fried Tuna or Roasted Duck that we offer on the current menu.

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier

If there were a classification of vineyards in California as in Burgundy where the very best are called Grand Cru, this vineyard would be absolutely classified as such.

But locals always know which ones are great no matter what the authority says. And those locals in this case are not ordinary local people but specialists of the world class reputation, including Kistler, Ramey, Littorai, Paul Hobbs, Patz & Hall, etc who have been using the grapes and of course receiving great reviews. Well, seemingly, this vineyard doesn't need such an official classification because it's been proven to be as equally great by the market! Besides that, WOW, 1994!!!

I could barely purchase only several bottles but no hurry!

We are in Japan where not so many people know how rare this wine is although they would be snapped up in California!

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier

Beringer should need no introduction to California wine lovers. 

But some people might have misconception about this great winery, believing that

Beringer only makes cheap, semi-sweet, fruity rose made from Zinfandel that has been a huge success

from a perspective of business. But the other side of the coin is that it's been somehow a negative campaign for

serious wine lovers in the same way as Liepfraumilch, successful German sweet wine, of course only businesswise.

Believe it or not, Beringer has been making some of the greatest wines in the gold country since its inception.

And these beautifully mature wines obviously prove it. And besides that, considering the vintages of the wines, they 

successfully stand the test of time.

Try these great wines, particularly if you believe that California wines cannot age or Beringer is wine that can be enjoyed 

only at the pool side!

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier

Finally, the fall has arrived here in Tokyo! Summer in this year was so long that

I felt as if we would get into severely cold winter immediately after summer without enjoying the most

pleasant season! But fortunately it's been fabulously comfortable lately, hasn't it?

We had been serving Diebolt Vallois Brut Prestige Blanc de Blancs during spring and summer

but it's time to change it to something richer and rounder in accordance with the season.

And this time I chose this great Champagne from Grand Cru village called Bouzy.

The Champagne uses 80% Pinot Noir with the balance Chardonnay so that it has a rich texture

and ripe fruit flavors along with abundant minerals without being heavy.

Enjoy this gorgeous Champagne not only for toasting but with a variety of foods!

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier

A lot of people including wine professionals (such as me from 10 years ago!)

believe that your success in making an elegant Chardonnay 

in Napa Valley is as limited as the Jamaican bobsled team trying to make it to the winter Olympics! 

Remember the movie?

What I mean is that there is nothing impossible!

If you believe that Napa Chardonnay is rich, buttery and simple, never changing in taste with time,

try this wine. You would be shocked by the firm acid and the complex aromas and flavors emerging with time and gaining

more weight with aeration. It calls for decanting in advance to realize its potential to the full.

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier

I was very thrilled to find this rare wine here in Tokyo! 

Well, if you are a fan of California wine, you might think that Paul Hobbs is everywhere even here in Tokyo.

Well, that is true except that some key words are missing.

They are "Hyde Vineyard", "Cabernet Sauvignon" and "1992"!

The combination of the 3 words makes it this ubiquitous producer very rare.

You may want to add "Tokyo" to this combo., though!

The Hyde vineyard is so famous that you might have heard of it but it is usually associated with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, 

both of which are grown in a cool climate

but usually not this thick skinned variety. Yes, this is a cool climate Cab made in the supposedly warm region!

As a matter of fact, there are some spots in the vineyard that are protected from the cold winds coming

from the San Pablo Bay.

And the wine is 20 years old!!!

I opened one of the bottles just recently and confirmed that the wine was aging beautifully.

The wine reminds me of an elegant style Bordeaux such as Palmer, Pichon Lalande or Ducru Beaucaulle rather than

modern style, big and rich Napa Cabs.

I wish I could get more wines like this!!!

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier

Believe it or not, this is a name for just one wine! Overwhelmingly too long, isn't it? 

Apparently, they have some problem with marketing although their wine making is undoubtedly fantastic!

This is a wine from one of the best vineyards in the Mosel region in Germany made by again one of the best producers in this country.

The wine retains some sweetness yet that is well balanced by the crisp acidity and the bracing minerality

so that it can be paired with various foods.

I particularly like the pairing of Steamed Abalone with Sea Urchin Sauce. 

But surprisingly the wine extremely goes well with

Grilled Sea Weed (KONBU) marinated Iberian Pork! The fatty meat is harmonious with the sweetness of the wine, being reminiscent of the famous pairing of foie gras and Sauternes and the minerality of the wine really enhances the KONBU flavored Iberian Pork!

And it's a great way to start dinner with this semi-sweet wine when you are tired from this Tokyo's  hot & humid summer

unless you believe in the recent study that claims that sugar is bad for your health!

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier

 

But, unfortunately most of them are quite expensive. I'm not saying that they are not worth the price.

But, the problem with Viogner is that there are few wines of a middle class, in other words, wines that are reasonable and delicious!

Viognier is more about "one or the other".

But, finally I've found a solution with this Viognier that comes from Washington, USA

that is absolutely delicious and happens to be reasonable!

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier

I understand that it's very difficult to sell wines with little name recognition at the same price as, say, Sancerre

even if the quality is the same.

That is one of the reasons why you are very likely to see Rias Baixas at Spanish bars here in Tokyo that are insipid.

But, this is undoubtedly a serious wine with distinctive minerality and ripe yet fresh fruit flavors

that are what truly authentic Rias Baixas has to offer. Very classic and delicious!

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier

Not an American wine? 

Well, although I was trained in Napa Valley, it doesn't mean that I have to stick to American wines!

Besides that, as a matter of fact, sommeliers in Napa Valley are all open-minded, meaning that they have unlimited curiosity and passion about wines from all over the world.

I have some wines from many countries on the wine list in addition to American wines. 

But it reflects the wine scene of Napa Valley more precisely than having only American wines!

Let's get back to the wine. Probably, I don't have to explain about this well known producer to English speaking wine lovers

although it is little known here in Japan.

But, the other side of the coin is that you can still get the previous vintages of this fabulous wine fairly easily here in Tokyo!

Yes, basically these wines are leftovers! Unbelievable!! But I have to confess that it is quite possible here in Tokyo considering the fact that Japan is a French colony in terms of a wine culture...

Enjoy this delicious leftover that couldn't be left over in your countries!

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier

each of which is so distinctive and tastes so individual that you can't help but compare the producer with top Burgundy producers.

How different are the wines? Well, let's talk about it with me at Hortensia!

It's more fun than talking about differences between, say, Chambertin and Musigny

because it's been done so many times by so many people around the world 

since centuries ago!

Let's do something new, shall we? 

Kaz Chiba

Head Sommelier